Climbing Split Mountain
July 2010
California has 15 peaks over 14,000 ft, of which Mount Whitney is the most well known, and the highest peak in the lower 48 states, at 14,491 ft (4417m).
Jesper and I decided to attempt a climb of a less known, but equally spectacular one of the 14ers a bit further to the north -
Split Mountain, at 14,058 ft (4285 m).
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Driving north we passed Mount Whitney, with its spectacular spires to the south of the main summit.
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We stayed in Big Pine with a friend of Jesper's, to be treated to a morning view of our goal partially covered in clouds.
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The road gets rougher the closer we get to the trail head, but the eastern rim of the sierras is spectacular in the morning sun.
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All ready to go. Red lake trailhead at roughly 6,500 ft (2000 m).
Lunch break with potato onion soup and pasta by a creek.
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After more than 4000 ft of climbing, we reached the first lake, just below Red Lake, to be treated to the first full on view of what was to come...
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It's clear why the peak got its name!
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And a few minutes later we looked over the next crest and saw Red Lake before us, at 10459 ft (3188 m).
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This is the view from our tent the next morning.
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After leaving camp just before 8 in the morning we could see our red tent shrinking by the lake...
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...but the peak didn't really seem to get any closer!
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Passing this saddle after a few hours we could really see what was up ahead: The narrow snow-filled chute on the far left side is the only 'walkable' path to the summit from this approach.
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We met a very friendly group of 3 climbers who were better prepared than us; with crampons, ice axes and helmets.
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At the top of the lower snow field, just below the chute.
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Now the real climbing started. Luckily the snow had become fairly soft at this point, right around noon, so we got good grip even without crampons.
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Jesper just above the chute
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Unfortunately it was already 12:30 as we had come this far, at approximately 13,000 ft, and we had around 2 more hours and more than 1,000 ft of elevation to the peak, so we decided to come back better prepared next time.
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This is as far as we made it this day. You can see us in the middle of this picture taken by our friends, who made it to the summit. Congratulations - Impressive climb!!
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CONTINUE
